How to Spend the Perfect 48 Hours in Ghent, the Hidden Gem of Europe
Two days in Ghent are enough to cover the essentials: canals, historic streets, local food, and the castle in the middle of town. This guide lays out a clear way to spend 48 hours without missing what makes the city stand out.
Start at the Graslei for a Quick Read on the City
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This historic quay was once Ghent’s medieval port, where grain and goods poured in from all over Europe. The guild houses that line the Leie River still wear their gables as a reminder of the city’s trading past.
Make Time for the Ghent Altarpiece at St. Bavo’s Cathedral
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Jan van Eyck’s Adoration of the Mystic Lamb is one of Europe’s most important artworks. This 15th-century polyptych, located inside St. Bavo’s Cathedral, survived theft and partial repainting. A digital restoration project now brings out details that went unseen for centuries. A ticket also gives access to the cathedral’s visitor center.
Grab Cuberdons Before They Disappear
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Cuberdons—pointy purple candies known locally as neuzekes or “little noses”—are strictly a Ghent thing. They’re made with gum arabic and filled with raspberry syrup, which keeps them soft inside for only a few days. That’s why vendors sell them straight from pyramids on their carts.
Get a Bird’s-Eye View from the Belfry
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The Belfry of Ghent, built in 1313, was once the tallest building in Belgium and a symbol of independence. It stored city charters, rang alarms, and watched for fires. Today, you can climb the 300-foot tower to see Ghent’s rooftops stretch toward the horizon.
Stroll Through Werregarenstraat, the City’s Legal Graffiti Alley
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Werregarenstraat, known as Graffiti Alley, is where artists of every level spray freely. The city legalized the space in the 1990s to channel street art away from historic facades, and it’s been repainted constantly ever since, with art that ranges from political slogans to cartoon faces.
Explore Patershol Without an Agenda
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Patershol’s tight cobbled lanes once housed leather workers and tradesmen. By the 20th century, it was in decline, but restorations brought life back, and now it’s a pocket of trendy shops. The streets are narrow and curved, so you’ll likely get a little lost, but that’s okay.
Take a Canal Tour to Reorient Yourself
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Ghent was developed right where the Scheldt and Leie rivers meet, and the canals remain its backbone. A boat tour travels past highlights like Gravensteen Castle and even hidden courtyards you’d never spot on foot. Many tours last under an hour and include English commentary.
Book a Table at Publiek for a Smart Meal
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Publiek has earned a Michelin star, but you won’t find white tablecloths or stiff waiters here. Chef Olly Ceulenaere focuses on seasonal, often local ingredients, like inventive takes on Belgian classics. The tasting menus change regularly, but the quality never wavers.
Visit the Castle of the Counts for a Walkthrough of Ghent’s Rougher Days
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Since its construction in the 12th century, Gravensteen Castle has served several roles as a fortress, courthouse, and offices. Now, it’s a museum that embraces its darker past, complete with an audio guide narrated by a local comedian. Expect commentary on bad plumbing and medieval power trips.
Spend Some Time at SMAK for Contemporary Art That Doesn’t Talk Down to You
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Ghent balances its medieval pride with bold modernity at SMAK, the city’s contemporary art museum. Exhibits feature Belgian artists like Panamarenko alongside global names from Andy Warhol to Cindy Sherman. The works are often experimental, with multimedia installations and provocative pieces.
Refuel at Luv L’Oeuf for Brunch That Leans Hard on Eggs
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Breakfast is the specialty at Luv L’Oeuf, and the name says it all. They serve variations on shakshuka, eggs Benedict, and French toast, all with strong coffee and bright interiors. Reservations are available on weekends.
Check Out the Book Tower and De Krook Library for Two Takes on Reading Spaces
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De Krook is a striking glass-and-steel library that doubles as a cultural hub with exhibitions. Nearby, the Book Tower, by Henry van de Velde, holds over three million books. One looks forward, the other looks back, but both highlight Ghent’s love of knowledge and its students’ central role.
Walk the St. Michael’s Bridge at Twilight
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If there’s one photo you take in Ghent, it’ll probably be from here. Stand at the center and you’ll see Ghent’s “three towers”—St. Nicholas’ Church, the Belfry, and St. Bavo’s lined up perfectly. At sunset, the lamps flicker on, and the reflections of the Leie River glow.
Pair Local Drinks With Stories at De Dulle Griet
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This bar near Vrijdagmarkt has over 250 drinks and a famous house rule: if you order a Kwak, your shoe goes in a basket as collateral until you return the glass. Regulars usually go for their usual picks, but the menu has enough variety to keep newcomers busy.
Wrap Up at the Great Butcher’s Hall for a Quick History Bite
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Het Groot Vleeshuis, or the Great Butcher’s Hall, dates back to the 15th century when it was the main meat market. Visitors can still find cured hams dangling from the wooden beams. The hall now features local producers selling cheeses, pâtés, charcuterie, and even craft drinks.